History lives and breathes in Le
Marche. You can see it in the rich art and architecture of
the walled cities. You can taste it in the traditional cuisine
and excellent wines, and you can live it through ancient
festivals still celebrated. Everywhere you go in Le Marche
you can see where time has left its mark. Although Le Marche
borders Umbria, and is within easy reach of Tuscany, and even
Rome, it is a region with a very strong sense of its own identity.
Within the eleven valleys that traverse the area, from the
Monti Sibillini National Park to the awe-inspiring beauty
of the coast, lies a truly remarkable land, and one in which
life has changed very little over the centuries. So what has
made this area so unique?
People have lived off this fertile land since 6000BC, thousands
of years before the time of the Etruscans, in the 7th C BC,
when the Piceni people populated the area. Through the coastal
towns, like Ancona, they had links with the Ancient Greeks,
and later, and less welcome, the Gauls. Nearly two and a half
millennia later, Gallic influence is still apparent in the
dialects spoken in the north.
Ancona was the gateway to Italy through which Christianity
entered, paving the way for the battles between Popes and
Holy Roman Emperors for control of the region that were to
come during the time of the Renaissance. This time saw huge
fluctuations in power between ruling families, the Borgias
among them. While cities like Urbino and Jesi were passed
around like pawns, the smaller towns gained in strength and
stature – it is no mystery why Le Marche is known for
its 100 walled cities.
Meanwhile, through the centuries, people continued to farm,
to make wine, to celebrate the passage through the year with
religious festivals and to live their lives in a way that
is not much different than it is today. In Le Marche, you
can feel as if you have experienced the past.
‘Must-see’ towns in
Le Marche.
Ascoli Piceno
Ascoli Piceno, in the far south of Le Marche, has a real medieval
feel, perhaps due to the Roman layout of the town, which was
built over the original settlement of Asculum Picenum. The
old town centre is dominated by the wonderful Bell Towers,
and there are fine examples of Romanesque, Medieval and Renaissance
architecture to be found. Ascoli Piceno revels in its history,
and it is the site of one of Italy’s most extravagant
historical performances, the Quintana, which takes place every
year–it’s the place to be if you want to witness
traditional jousting. It's numerous street cafes also make it an
excellent place to watch the world go by.
Jesi
Another of Le Marche’s distinguished walled cities,
the beautiful town of Jesi dates back to a settlement named
‘Aesis’ by the Romans, who took it over from the
resident Umbrians in 247BC. Jesi survived the battle between
the Guelphs and the Ghibbelines in the 14th century to become
the birthplace of Federico II and the composer Giovanni Battista
di Pergolesi, to whom the magnificent opera house is dedicated.
Jesi also has a reputation for fine wine – the famous
Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi is much sought after.
Macerata
The first settlement established on the site where Macerata
is today was destroyed in 408 AD, despite its defensive situation
on the side of a hill. As can be seen, the town grew in stature
and is today home to many fine works of art and examples of
Baroque and Renaissance architecture. The historic centre
of Macerata is set within the city walls, and a relaxing day
can be spent walking through the ancient streets that converge
on the Piazza della Liberta`at the heart of the city. If
you are an opera lover, the season runs from July to August
and performances are staged in the remarkable open-air Sferisterio
arena.
Recanati
Recanati is the birthplace of one of Italy’s most famous
poets – Giacomo Leopardi. Such was his influence, that
it would be easy to think that Recanati is simply a monument
to him, but Recanati has much more of interest to offer. The
many ancient buildings lend the town an elegance and warmth.
The public art gallery houses some beautiful works of art,
particularly those of Lorenzo Lotto. Recanati is also home
to a museum of opera – the only one of its kind, and
a tribute to its other famous son, Beniamino Gigli, the world
famous tenor.
Urbino
You only have to enter Urbino’s 15th century walls to
be transported back to the time of Federico da Montefeltro,
Duke of Urbino between 1442 and 1482. The city he built has
changed very little since then – the walls were still
the city’s official boundary until the end of WWII.
Urbino now houses the National Gallery and Archaeological
Museum in the Palazzo Ducale, one of the most beautiful buildings
in a city not short of fine architecture. The gallery also
makes Urbino one of the best places in Italy to come for art,
as it contains works by artists such as Raphael, who was born
here.
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